Now, the beast has really been conquered because the ignition switch is back in the car and EVERYTHING IS WORKING! Happy day.
The hardest part after getting the spring in correctly was to get the electrical part to make the correct contacts at the correct times. The weak connections must have been the reason for the cooked plastic end cap. Higher resistance = higher current flow and more heat.
I ended up putting some dabs of solder on the contacts that weren't making contact and did some filing and checking until all the contacts worked as they should. Next step is to put in some relays so this thing doesn't have to choke on all the current it used to.
Updated as of 12/15/03
Re-worked spring end location. The stock location makes it easy to pull out of it's correct resting location and wedge into the space between this piece and the housing right above it. That is what makes the ignition "sticky" sometimes.
What I did is I made the spring shorter so that the end of the spring that is always resting against a point is held against the should labeled "New Location." This way, the pin right next to it holds it down from skipping too "high" and everything works the same.
This is the electical contact end of the ignition showing all the rebuilding I had to do with the "2 Ton Epoxy." I chose this epoxy because it is slow-setting and VERY strong and it bonds well to the plastic (and anything else!).
The arrow shows where I ended up putting a dab of solder to make the electrical contacts work correctly.
Sorry I don't have a picture of the contacts side of the "contact slider" (above left), but you get the idea. I just used a regular soldering iron and put a nice, round dab on both of those points. That is what finally made the electical work correctly. Hopefull it never gets hot enough to melt my solder (that would create an electical nightmare in there!).
Also shown is the "paper" insulating piece that fits between this slider and the plasitc carrier (the part with the skinny spiral spring through it). It had cooked away an entire end of it. i used regular card stock to cut a new one. Hopefully this won't create burning problems in the future either. But then again, is it really supposed to get THAT hot in there? If all the contacts make good contact, then no, I guess.
The whole thing went together just as taken apart. I added grease to the necessary places and epoxy to hold in the pins I removed. Also, I crimped in the metal to hold the end cap in just like it was stock. Just don't bend these more than once if you don't have to, they break easily.
Another view that shows where I built up the end cap with epoxy so that it would stay put. The arrow shows where the stock cap does not have any material and is weak. I left epoxy there and filed out below it. That way, it is much stronger than stock, however, it will be much harder to remove the cap in the future (hope I never have to) because there will be nowhere to put a screwdriver to pry the crimped metal out.
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